Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment - Linear Pull & V Brake

What people said

Recommends Argenti Apparatus · 2017-08 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Front Brake Dilemma”

First, please do not ride the bike in it's current condition with the fork reversed or the front brake not functioning, it is dangerous. The steering will be unstable and you may not be able to stop quickly enough. You have two things to do: 1) Un-reversing the fork, obviously. 2) Adjusting the front brake (and checking the rear brake). To un-reverse the fork/handlebars. The 'quill' style stem must be loosened. Loosen the hex bolt in the top of the stem (you don't have to undo it all the way), the bars and stem will come loose from the fork steerer tube in the headtube, rotate the forks 180 degrees, replace the stem, align the bars and tighten the stem. A couple of things to be aware of: Mak

Recommends Argenti Apparatus · 2018-04 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Left Brake Lever Slack”

You are correct that there should be some space between the lever and handlebar when the brakes are fully applied. I think I can assume that you have set up the calipers so that the pads are the correct distance from the wheel rim - a few millimeters (or a bit more if your wheels are a little out of true), as you say that adjusting the cable causes the pads to rub on the rim. If the lever hits the handlebar there must be excess slack in the cable somewhere. You say that adjusting the cable at the caliper or using the barrel adjuster does not improve the lever travel. If you pull the lever, does the caliper move immediately, or if there cable slack being taken up before the caliper moves? I'm

Recommends Vladimir F Героям слава · 2020-04 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Front brakes need to be further apart to fit the front wheel through”

Most V brakes can be disengaged by the process the manual says. Anther term for this part is the cable-hook link or the cradle and the noodle. Some most-basic V-brakes do not have this feature and may require releasing the cable-fixing bolt. The process is shown in this video Then you will have to properly setup the tension to get the correct braking action and avoid any rub. There are many tutorials about this. Some brakes are more adjustable than others. The better ones have adjustable springs on each caliper. One of the tutorials is here

Recommends Adam Rice · 2020-05 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “How do I fix my front wheel that’s hitting my brakes?”

Those brakes are far out of alignment. The brake arms should be symmetric around the bike's centerline. You may need to let some slack into the cable, at least temporarily by loosening the cable-fixing bolt and letting 1-2 cm more slack in. You'll see small screws pointing outward near the pivots. These pre-load the springs for each brake arm. Tighten the one for the brake arm that's farther away from the centerline and loosen the other until both arms are as close to parallel as you can get them. If you let slack into the cable before, and there's too much slack for you to lock up the brakes now, take the slack out of the cable so that the pads sit a few mm away from the rims. Also: it may

Recommends Argenti Apparatus · 2020-05 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Front V-brake not working”

The 'noodle' (the curved silver tube the brake cable passes through) has slipped through the holder on the right-hand (in your picture) brake caliper. The noodle is designed to come out of the holder to spread the calipers to enable the wheel to be taken out. The proper configuration looks like this: Squeeze the calipers together and free the noodle from the holder. Pull the dust boot off the end of the noodle, you should see a little flange on the end - that fits into the end of the holder. Before you attempt to fit the noodle in the holder, slide the cable housing into the other end of the noddle, and also make sure the housing is inserted in the brake lever body on the handlebar. Squeeze

Recommends Jeff · 2021-04 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Can't figure out the origin of loud screeching noise”

You are describing brake squeal caused by the brake pads resonating on the rim during braking. Wet rims often squeal worse than dry ones and the flour use reduced the friction somewhat which reduced the ability to resonate as well as diminishing brake effectiveness. There is a way to alleviate much of the braking noise with the technique of "toeing" in the brake pads very slightly so that the front of the pad contacts the rim first and then the rest of the pad closes further. This helps prevent resonating which is the cause of the noise. A rubber band wrapped around the trailing edge of each pad will provide ample toe in when the loosened pad, brought into contact with the rim by activating

Cites Jeff · 2021-03 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “brake seems slack but pad is already close to rim”

There are a few possible reasons why you're experiencing poor braking performance of a v-brake system. You relate that at least one side's pads are close to the braking surface already. Are the two sides balanced? Are the pads at a start point from the rim that is the same distance--which should be 2mm or a little less. If pad spacing is unbalanced, the adjuster screws are usually at the outer base of each brake lever arm where the brake lever installs on the bike's brake boss. The screw is usually a phillips head but can also be a hex head requiring a 2-3mm Allen key and there's one for each brake arm. Clockwise rotation of the screw will pressure the arm's spring making the pad move away f

Cites Selusiac · 2022-04 · Bicycles Stack Exchange · on “Shimano pre-greased crank: where to spread the grease?”

That might be an ok rule of thumb, but some screws should not be greased on their thread. Ex. you should not put grease on v-brake link fixing bolt (ref Parktool install guide [this video] )